The Winter of (Foodie) Discontent — Nowadays, you can eat pretty much
any fruit or vegetable you want, all year long. But should you? During
the summer and fall, farmer's markets are brimming with local, organic
food that was harvested within 24 hours and is usually at the peak of
its freshness, flavor, and nutritional content. In the winter and early
spring, however, you often have to rely on out-of-season produce that's
traveled an average of 1,300 miles to get from commercial farms to your
dinner table. The process is not only bad for the planet, but it also
means you wind up with bland produce that's mealy and low on nutrients.
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While some out-of-season eating is inevitable, there are certain fruits
and vegetables you're better off buying frozen. Frozen produce, like
fresh produce, has usually traveled long distances to get to your plate,
but it at least was picked at the height of freshness and, studies have
found, sometimes has a higher nutrient content than fresh produce (just
watch for added salt, added to many frozen veggies). For an expert's
take on what should only be eaten in season, we turned to Chris DiMinno,
the chef at Portland, Oregon's modern gastropub Clyde Common. 08 Foods You Should Never Eat Out of Season after the break...
01. Tomatoes
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DiMinno is adamant about eating fresh tomatoes when they're naturally
ripe and delicious. "Eat them between early August and mid-to-late
October, says DiMinno. "They can only gain their full potential
sweetness and tenderness in the middle and late summer months." In the
winter, bypass the cardboard-y orbs in the produce section and look for
jarred, crushed tomatoes instead. Jars don't contain the toxic chemical
BPA, which is used to line tin cans, and you can find organic jarred
tomatoes made by Bionaturae and Eden Organics.
02. Peas
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Fresh peas aren't easy to find, and with good reason; the true pea
season, according to DiMinno, is only about two weeks long. "Only eat
them in early spring, when they are the sweetest and the most tender.
Other times of the year, fresh peas can be starchy, with little to no
flavor," says DiMinno. If you're a diehard fan of peas, the chef advises
stocking up on them in the spring, and shelling your peas and freezing
them while their sugars are at their peak. If you're stuck with
store-bought, look for Columbia River Organics frozen green peas, sold
at Whole Foods stores. They contain no added salt.
03. Asparagus
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Another truly seasonal vegetable, asparagus is only good in early to mid
spring, before the stalks become too woody. Otherwise, you just wind up
with bland, limp stalks. Most out-of-season asparagus is grown in
California or Washington, which could be local depending on where you
live, but the U.S. also imports a fair amount from South America. Frozen
asparagus, which doesn't usually contain added salt, is good in cooked
dishes, or for a twist, try pickled asparagus, which you can find at
certain specialty grocery stores and farmer's markets.
04. Wax Beans
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Summer gardens often overflow with colorful wax beans, and it's the best
time to savor them. Says DiMinno, "These are only good in the summer.
Before and after, they can get very fibrous and have terrible color." If
you prefer fresh, squeaky beans, you may be better off living without
them until next summer, but in most recipes, wax beans can be used
interchangeably with green beans, which Columbia River Organics sells
without any added salt. Going with frozen is extra important with green
beans, as tests from Consumer Reports have shown that canned green beans
contained the highest levels of BPA of any canned food.
05. Corn
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Enjoy it while it lasts—corn is only at its prime in the late summer and
early fall. Corn's sugar content is at its peak in September, says
DiMinno, adding that it's best grilled or roasted in its husk and peeled
afterwards. This helps the corn retain moisture and flavor. In the
off-season, look for frozen corn. It's easy to find organic, nowadays,
without added salt.
06. Mushrooms
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Since every season has a mushroom, you can enjoy them year-round; just
don't stray outside each variety's season: "Morels in the spring,
truffles in winter and summer, chanterelles in the fall, lobster
mushrooms in summer," says DiMinno. Because mushrooms are highly
absorbent, don't clean them with water; instead, trim off the bottoms
and clean off any residual dirt using a pastry brush. For a deliciously
different side dish, make Marinated Mushrooms with Coriander.
07. Lettuces
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Although lots of lettuces can be found year-round, DiMinno says that the
best lettuces grow in late winter and early spring when it is still
chilly outside. This allows the lettuce to achieve the maximum level of
crispiness, as well as the highest sugar content, making early spring
the best time of year for sweet, crunchy salads. In the off-season,
rather than buy bagged lettuces, consider using lettuce alternatives
like kale, as in this recipe for Black Kale Salad with Currants, or red
or green cabbage, as in this Autumn Salad. The season for both of those
greens lingers into the winter.
08. Peaches
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Peaches are a fruit with a fleeting season, and they don't hold up well
when transported. For truly ripe, flavorful peaches, DiMinno says enjoy
them only in the middle of summer. Other times of the year, look for
peach butters (which can be made without extra sugar) and preserves made
locally; don't even bother with frozen, according to a taste test
hosted by the San Francisco Chronicle a few years back. "No flavor," was
the general consensus among all their taste testers, who sampled frozen
peaches from Safeway, Whole Foods, and Trader Joe's, among other
brands.
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